vendredi 28 janvier 2011

Surfer Miki Dora

Any true pioneer leads a lonely existence and the further back one goes in recorded history, the more bizarre it gets. Dora was driven by PASSION. It appears things got wierd only when he spoke about them, then he hated the interviewer. I shared water-time with the master in the early '60's and being on balsa boards at the time, we were all blown-away by his grace and intuitive understanding of waves. You never "dropped-in" on Dora more than once, that much I can tell you. RiP Mik

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