"lechat" Yesterday is history............ Tomorrow is a mystery....... Today is a gift.................... That's why it's called "the present"!!! Enjoy and savor each day.....
vendredi 28 janvier 2011
Surfer Miki Dora
Any true pioneer leads a lonely existence and the further back one goes in recorded history, the more bizarre it gets. Dora was driven by PASSION. It appears things got wierd only when he spoke about them, then he hated the interviewer. I shared water-time with the master in the early '60's and being on balsa boards at the time, we were all blown-away by his grace and intuitive understanding of waves. You never "dropped-in" on Dora more than once, that much I can tell you. RiP Mik
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